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Interviewed by Anna Piunova, Mountain.RU

Marko Prezelj Autor: Liana Darenskay (Moscow)

Mountain.RU (M.RU): You made a lot of interesting ascents, but which of them were the best for you?

Best. How do you consider best, by which parameters? For me it is very relative term. What is BEST is today most important for media and sponsors which are beside climbers itself the most involved in the magic circle of best, first, most, new ...(self promotion and gaining attention). Absence of real "score" in alpinism, makes it interesting for professional manipulation on the market. Because of that a lot of climbers are looking for instant recognition in media (money market) instead in relatively small climbing society. Is there more life with more commerce (money)?

We are all different. For me my best realization is my life and my family.

M.RU: When you choose the route - what is the decisive factor for you to choose this very mountain, route, summit? What do you pay attention to?

Interest. Usually nothing special. Can you answer why do you fall in love? Attention is to everything - especially to me, my feelings and my complex combination of physical and psychological strength – skills and knowledge that I can do what I want. Seeking balance between experience and training on one side, and uncertainty with decision making and responsibility on the other side, often creates the complex challenge. Do everything you can to get is what you want?

M.RU: You made some solo-ascent. What do you think about style “solo”?

What is real solo? Are you alone (solo) if you have modern option to call someone (and a lot of other safety equipment and “brave escape” options)? I did solo ascents mostly to be alone and to be light and fast. For me only.

M.RU: What kind of people activities in the mountains you would like to limit if you could (for example commercial expe…)

Mountains should be without limits. Limits are in our heads first. We should “play fair” with ourselves in the mountains. The only real limit in the mountains should be freedom of someone on the charge of someone else. It is on personal level. Responsibility and respect are part of that.

M.RU: Do you have unfinished ascent? To descent - was it the only reason or the only way to survive?

All my ascents are finished experiences – as well as descents. Some of them finished before I made my idea(l)s true. Maybe ego has some comment on “unfinished feelings”.

M.RU: There are some objective dangerous routes in your list (high risk of stonefalls, avalanches, etc) And what motivation?

Risk is not my motivation, I try to avoid foolish risk. Uncertainty is another thing. As well as (personal) responsibility. Challenge to test my skills, creativity, and personality … is always here to accept.

Risk and uncertainty are two different things – often complex mixed. It is not so linear in the real mountains. I respect them but I also like (and want) to solve my “challenges” in life – not just in the mountains. Interest … more training (work)… more experience …. create more ideas … and with more ideas come more training - magic circle without the limit … This (more) is in us (humans) I think. If not, we could be still on the trees or lower (for “more safety” – or comfort maybe?).

M.RU: What do you think about Russian mountaineers and their ascents? If there is Russian style?

As far as I know – mostly from the media (with their own interests) - I can realize that Russians are strong. I had some experiences with very nice Russian people too.

I can’t talk about the style in national level but only on personal level. Some people like one “style” more than the other and opposite. Question of style has the answer in personal fundamentals of success. For me personally it is far more important how I solve the problem than just if I solve the problem. I have to be honest to myself first. Ethics might have some roots in national character but this should not limit one in creating personal fundamentals.

M.RU: And the last question (I think traditional) - Do you have a dream, I mean mountaineering dream?

Dream? No. … maybe wish. Cyber Peak. Limits in my head ...