Mountain photos - amateur and professional photos of mountains.

The author: Alexander Nagorov, Moskow

 

Trainer’s notes disputable and indisputable

Note 2. Note 1

About the attitude to rock-climbing in general and training in particular.

There are different approaches to training: you can try to climb any route, you can try to be loaded well, you can try to get any physical and technical skills, etc. It seems to me, that the most effective, but a little slower method is the method of creative comprehension. Try to improve your movements, to improve physical qualities, but all do that with REALIZING. If you want to win competitions, the aspiration to a victory, will bring the result much faster, than a way of complex perfection, but sooner or later you will bury in "ceiling", therefore - do not hasten and work.

What qualities should the rock-climber improve first of all?

In due time I came across the book written by Chuck Norris, apparently, its title was "The secret force inside us”. This book in general is very interesting and also contains many "secrets" of trainings. There is a conversation with the other known film actor Bruce Li there. When speech turned on the qualities, which were needed to be trained in single combats first of all, Bruce Li drew a wheel with spokes where the spokes - different qualities, and noticed: "The wheel well slides when the spokes have identical length". It is fair and for rock-climbing.

The spokes are

• The physical data
• The psychological data
• Ability to think
• Technical skills.

And each spoke you should consider as a separate wheel. In detail I do not want to decipher, at least, for the present moment. Think, find, be improved.

A sportsman and a trainer.

There are different ways of interaction between sportsmen and trainers. The heaviest ones are when a sportsman does not want to hear the trainer and the trainer does not train at all.

It happens, that trainers completely determine all training process. They are good trainers.

But it seems to me, that it is better way, when a sportsman creatively trains in his own, and the trainer prompts him. The trainer is like a look from outside. A sportsman does not need him at some time of trainings. There is a huge part of training work, which a sportsman should do independently, but no manuals and advice will replace the good trainer.

Now about concrete things.

Let's return to the photo of Julia Abramchuk. We see that the left hand and the left leg are located on one axis. The centre of gravity is located on one straight line, practically near to this axis. That means that Julia stands on the left leg. Pressure upon an edge is carried out from above. It occurs due to a direct position of a body and a direct left leg. The right leg rests against a wall, and adjusts the position of the body. Her hands are practically unloaded. The left hand does not allow the body to fly away from the wall. The right hand, either has finished, or is going to make any movement. We can evidently see a principle of use of pressure on edges. Hands hold the minimal weight.

Now about the position of a body. Stand on a floor, foots or at width, or hardly more widely then shoulders. Hands are lowered downwards. Slightly rise on tiptoe. Remember your sensations. This is the basic base position of a body. And now not moving shoulders forward, move “the fifth point” back. What? Falling? And now recollect goombas on a wall: Hands are bent and they keep for edges with all their might. A breast is flatten, “the fifth point” sticks out. How much health is necessary, to climb in this position!

Now let return to the starting position, that means you to be straightened, and your heels – to be slightly torn off from a floor. Move weight of your body on the right leg due to straightening the left leg, then move weight of your body on the other leg. The weight of a body should move due to straightening a leg and raising of heel, instead of rocking here and there. Your movements should be smooth. HAVE CAUGHT?

Now transfer weight of a body rocking. HAVE UNDERSTOOD the DIFFERENCE?

Now find two good edges for legs on a vertical or slightly flat wall. Try to do the same on them. It is not necessary to lift a heel. The body should be to straight lines, the breast is slightly moved aside, a basin is slightly flatten (do not bent strongly). Recollect the position on a floor. A hand do not load, do not last too highly upwards. It is good to use underclings and side edges. Earlier rock-climbers started with a flat surface, it was easier. They were taught at once to hold the body vertically and to climb, using balance on flat plates. Now it is more difficult to do, as there is almost no flat reliefs in climbing gyms.

Note 1