Asia, Oman

Western Hajar

Jebel Misht, New Route.
On November 28-29 Gatis Kalnins and I (both from Latvia) opened a new route (21 pitch, 1000 m, TD+ Fr 6a) on the south face of Jebel Misht in a lightweight, single push. Route was free climbed without any usage of bolts or pitons.

On November 27 we arrived at the base of the enormous S-SE wall of Jebel Misht massive. Altitude difference at the highest point of wall is close to 900 m but it is hard to scale as wall stretches for more then 4 km in horizontal direction. And amazing that rock piece of such size still has only dozen routes established.

French team in year 1979 climbed first and longest route (1400 m) at the junction between south and south-east faces of the wall. All other routes have been variants of French line or established on south-east face of the wall.

Our intent was to climb new route on practically untouched vast south face. Afternoon reconnaissance showed two possible lines in labyrinth of overhangs which blocked every weakness in wall. Chose logical gully system which as far as we could see stretched up to two thirds of wall...

Next morning did two hour approach and reached start of climb 400 m higher then our base camp. First couple of pitches was climbing on easy but loose rock with series of wide shelves. Then wall steepened and our gully started. After two pitches (5b, 5c) gully steepened into overhang and we traversed onto face... Rock was some kind of limestone and very sharp, got to use lot of loops to draw our double ropes off wall and minimize tension. But climbing in general was excellent at moderate difficulty except high risk of abrasive injuries in case of any slip or fall.

On pitch eleven gully which we followed ended in big gap unseen from bottom which separated huge gendarme (40 meter high!) from main wall. This was the point were our previous day reconnaissance ended, ahead lied improvisation part. First we climbed three hard and extorting pitches (all - 6a) on off-width and crack system to avoid overhanging face by left side. It was first crux. Three more pitches of moderate climbing and scrambling on loose rock and we were stopped by another vertical face and nightfall simultaneously not far from top of wall. Night was spent on wide shelf under survival blanket.

Next morning we entered second crux of the route – 50 meters of climbing at grade 6a on vertical face with complicated route finding, pitch which took almost two hours.

After one more pitch of 5b we achieved base of overhanging gendarme which arises over the ridge of wall. After unsuccessful attempt to climb out on right side of gendarme we found way on its left side (pitch 5a with easy overhanging chimney). One more pitch (6a) and we were on ridge of Jebel Misht some 700 meters higher then start of route!

Have to mention that climb was completed in winter season which in Arabia means heat up to 30-34 Celsius degrees even in shadow but you are exposed to sun on south face! Our water reserves (10 liters) were emptied when we reached top on second midday. We got water at shepherds hut after three more hours of extorting descent on northern side of mountain. And there were more of 20 km trekking around the massive to our base camp which we reached by nightfall…