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Аuthor: Maxim Petrenko, Ukraine, Kiev

Wildcat Russian-Ukrainian autumn training in Saint Leger

Joint Russian-Ukrainian team spent vinous-relaxing and climbing- lead -up training in Saint-Leger-du-Ventoux, France. Cool rock-climbing and a good company: Zilya, Jack Krivosheitsev, Katya Yaemurd, Nadya, Scott and Stuart from New Zealand, Alena Ostapenko and Sadovsky Evgeny, Medun, Vadim and Lena Kaspichi, Mike Shalagin.


Saint Leger
Photo http://pherat.free.fr
We had been living for a week in a free-of-charge tent camp, taking baths in the river and cooking on gas stoves, when the Gite keeper came and declared everything around his property. He let us spend the night in the car or strike our tents in the morning and set them back in the evening.

The most amenable of us lodged in hotel at once and not regretted: it was a very original design a la Villages there (you could not find such one in usual hotel, especially for 13 EUR and de luxe suite - for fans of romanticism - for 15 EUR) all living conditions for rest, for climbing and for laziness: hot water, common kitchen.


Katya Yaemurd in Crimea
After competitions as it is usual, I've got an excellent fit shape. First day I on-sighted 8а (short, 7 quickdraws) and 7с + in sector "South" ("Face Sud"). The routes unfortunately have no names. Every day, even for warm-up, we climbed new lines. For example, 6с line along the colonettes in the beginning of the "South" is just a continuous thrill.


Rocks in Saint Leger
Photo http://pherat.free.fr
Everybody worked at his own program till he was blue in the fac: Alena was struggling with her next 8 a-graded lines, Medun - on-sighting 7- b +, Katya managed to on-sight 7с +. Jack finished the deal he had started for a long time: and got off “Le Nabab”, 8b +.

The lines are of various styles here: hanging and not so. Everyone can find an object after his own heart.

I tried to on-sight "Abergnev", 8b, sector "East" ("Face Est"): struggled hard and was close to send it but fell right at the end of a series of difficult moves. But I could climb it second go with hardly any trouble at all.


Jury Dulub on Saint Leger
lines
Jack Krivosheitsev and I probed "Osan", 8b +, sector "South". After the first crux we had to pick up at an eternally wet side rake and wiped our hands with trousers.


Eugeny Krivosheitsev,
Crimea, Gullih, 8с +
The main problem was in bouldering site with two crimpers where you get after the exhausting colonettes.

Jack found the way and did it in two days.

I finally could send it too little bit later after four-day efforts. But I mean you no harm to advise to climb in such a manner: a rest day is needed after two days of continuous climbing.

The level of rock-climbing seems to appreciate greatly lately. The strongest rock-climbers climbed next to us: Tomas Mrazek (sent “Le Nabab”, 8b +, on-sight), Patxi Usobiaga (on-sighted "Praniania", 8b and “Le Nabab”, 8b +).

Such results of our friends motivate us very much to try to on-sight 8b, 8b + instead of 8а, 8а + as earlier!

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