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Author: Sergey Aisin, Ufa

From Teberda to Arhiz

Routes of I and II grade of difficulty that we suggest your attention, are suitable for training backpacking routes for groups of beginners. They are likely to be created especially for holding practice seminars, schools, preparing of cadres of the base level. Holding these establishments produce favorable conditions for physical, tactical and technical training level of sportsmen before their summer starts.

Necessary special group equipment:
Avalanche spits: 2-4 items per group,
Avalanche cords: each member of the group should have one,
Avalanche shovels: 2-4 items per group,
Avalanche beacon lights: as far as possible.

 

Approach to the beginning of the route, city Teberda, is realized by scheduled or rented bus from Nevinnomyssk or Mineral Waters. Before setting off for the route, the groups have to register in Teberdinsky Frontier Rescue Party.

Both of the routes start in Teberda and go to the path Muha (“Fly”) ( 2764 meters , 1A grade of difficulty). You have to go up along the valley of the river Muha to cheese plant, where it is recommended to make a bivouac. After the plant the road is changed with good path that in spring can be covered with deep snow. Ascent to the pass Muha is recommended to be held during morning hours as the eastern slope of the pass is covered with snow. We recommend you to wake the group at 4 o'clock a.m., recommended time of setting off for climbing to the pass is 6.00 a .m. Avalanche hazard is absent even in long spring, but this strip give an opportunity if holding a training of passing slopes, along which avalanches can run down. Slow rise lead to the saddle of the pass, from where the western summit of the Elbrus can be seen, when the weather is clear. Descent from the pass is not difficult, there is a small strip of 30-35 degrees steep, 40- 50 meters long. Further along grassy slopes you can go down to a stream, where it is comfortable to have dinner and rest after hard morning climb. Further the groups, that are passing the route of I grade of difficulty go via the settlement Krasny Karachai to the valley of the river Aksaut, and groups, passing the route of II grade of difficulty start climbing to the pass Archaiut ( 3000 m , 1B. Rise to the pass starts near the source of river Ullu-marka. Place we recommend you to pass the night is located below “cowstones” at the upper terraces. You have to find the pass between “hare ears” – characteristic rocky inselbergs. The saddle of the ass presents a narrow crevice in a rocky ridge. The western slope is about 40 degrees steep. In off-season, or if there is a lot if snow on the slopes of the pass, avalanches can run along them, so it is necessary to pass it according to the safety standards. Among the great number of paths, leading downwards, you have to choose the right one, it leads to the road, going in the valley of the river Aksaut, and then – to the settlement Rudnichny.

There is the place where the routes of the first and the second grade of difficulty meet together. In that way, one group can belay another favorable conditions for mutual aid are being held.

Further the group that goes along the route of the first grade of difficulty has to go to the pass Halega ( 3000 m , 1A). The group has to set off from the bivouac not later than 2 o'clock a.m., otherwise it won't be able to climb to the pass during early morning hours and will come across crumbly snow on upper terraces. Up to the upper barn (“kosh”) a fine path leads, then the group has to cross snow field, holding to its right side. The most difficult strip is “cowstones” that are necessary to round to the right, cutting off the slope. It is better to reach the saddle between 5 and 6 o'clock in the morning, during the coldest period of day and night, because of potential avalanche hazard of the eastern slope. The dawn on the saddle is delightful especially beautiful in this time of day is the majestic mount Karakaia . Way if descent from the pass lies along slightly sloping snow fields, lowest slightly snow terraces are steeper (up to 40 degrees steep).

Groups that are going the route of the second grade of difficulty at this time are storming the pass Karakaia Northern ( 3100 m , 1B). It is also recommended to pass it during early morning hours. Before climbing to the pass t is comfortable to pass the night near destroyed barn (“kosh”). The saddle is visible, it is not difficult to orientate there. It is better to descent along the right side of the Northern-Maruhsky glacier, where there are no cracks.

In the valley of the river Maruha the groups meet again. Descending along the river, they come to cheese plant and, having passed the bridge near it, - to houses of the “hotel”, where it is comfortable to pass the night.

From this place rise to the pass Karabek ( 2020 m , out of difficulty grade) starts. Orientating is embarrassed there, it is necessary to walk along the ridge, crossing the road and paths. At last a good path, leading up to the pass appears. Near a beforepass rise there is a barn (“kosh”). The saddle of the pass is wide and well-noticeable, in comparison with other passes there is much less snow. The descent is easy, new the meadow of the forest a path appears, it leads to the road, going to the settlement Arhiz.

Phone number for consultations: +79509588057, +79613647788.
E-mail: aysinse@inbox.ru

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