Part 1.

Part 2. Deion of passes and ascents.

Pass Kokyardavan (out of classification, including climb to the BC –1B grade of difficulty).

The pass is situated in the southern spur of the crest Kokshaalu, (crest Kashkartau), in the southern part of it. It connects settlement Talak (to the West) with the river Chon-Tereksu (to the East).

It is used for reaching the valley of the river Chon-Tereksu above the canyon from the road, using which you can get to the region. The deion is given to the route starting on a grass plato below the pass up to the BC situated on the glacier Chon-Teren. The pass is out of classification if you climb up to the valley of the Chon-Tereksu. But taking into account technical strips on approach to the BC, including one rope rounding the icefall, it can be evaluated as an obstacle of 1B-2A difficulty grade.

Way up . Rather good road led you to the pass, the climb from the plato with summer houses is unnoticeable – about 50 meters . The saddle is represented with a road, gashed in a ground slope. It is possible to stop for a night there, but there is no water.

Way down . It adds up a road on a grass slope of the valley Chon-Tereksu. In about 0.5- 1 km a road bifurcates, one branch goes up fluently, the other lacet road runs down. We chose the lowest one. It led us to a small pure confluent of the Chon-Tereksu, there the road changed to a path, and some time later the path was going along the river Chon-Tereksu.

Way up to the Base Camp . We went the path along the river. The valley sometimes widened, sometimes became narrow, propped up by grassy slopes, overgrown with forest. Somewhere above us in 200- 300 m an old road was going. Very soon our path again led us to the road – they joined. Further, on overgrown with forest strips, the road withstood the ravages of time, but somewhere forest was cut through by canyons after mudflows had gone down.

Here the path could be rather hard – in one place we had to make steps to allow horses to go. A part of the way we went along wide bare bank with wizened forest. Such a way we passed the first large confluent – Belaya (White) river, ford.

Further we went along the path, somewhere disappearing, and came to the river Sailyksu – the largest right confluent of the river Chonteren. Apropos, the path all the time went along the right bank of the river. On the junction with Sailyksu there is a huge grassy meadow, a proper bridge (constructed of four beams) led to it. On the field (meadow) there are two goods-seds, built of huge beams – vestige of the Chinese expedition to the Pobeda Peak held in the year 1977. Just beyond the meadow on the edge of the wood there is a stream. It was clear, but it was better not to take water form it – sheep had made it being all in a muck. Here the road wasn't destroyed and when we went along it for about 200 meters further to wood – we found a very pure small river, from which we can take water. In surroundings of the river and a big meadow – there is one of the best places to make a bivouac. Further there wasn't pure water for a long time.

Sometimes the road disappeared, preserving only in the forest. The forest gradually became sparse, road turned somewhere to the left and we went on going along the river, by the path. Then we went up to the upper ruskie – the Kirghiz brought us there, and we had to pass a night there. There was the border of the forest. In the morning our Kirghiz with horses went away and we had to move our things from trunks to rucksacks and carry them on our backs. We had to descend to the river and then along the bank we went to the cased glacier and soon we reached the place of our camp in 2004. We didn't find provisions we had left. It meant that several next days (before cargos delivery) we had to b hungry. In a day we went up to the upper part of the first right-side pocket, where we found a spring. Before that moment we thought that there had been no weather. In the morning we went on climbing, then descended from the crest to the glacier to the rocky girth rail along which we rounded the icefall. One easy rope along the rocks (fixed rope) – and further along a pocket with large stones, and we were near the lake – the place where we left a reserve in 2002.

In the rest of that reserve we found a can of salmon. Two hours of races along the side-rocks and one crossing later we went up to the next pocket – there was a nice stream and grassy meadows. And lakes were somewhere farther along the moraine the nearest one was in three minutes of walking. When the weather was warm we could bathe in lakes as well in the stream. It was very comfortable place, from which it was convenient to go to the West – to the traverse, and to the North – to the peak of Voennih Topografov , and to the East, too. There the next day would be our base camp.

Total it took us 12 hours to pass the strip. (two days).

Supplemental information about the route.

  The massif of summits named after Jury Vizbor (the western – 5853 m high, the main – 5960 m ) is located in the northern spur of the crest Kokshaalu that starts at the Pobeda peak and separates the Eastern and the western branches of the glacier Chon-Teren. The main summit (5960) is in distance of 7 km to the East from the Eastern summit of the Pobeda Peak , and from the main summit the spur turns to South-East where in two km the Western summit is located.

Choosing the route.

The traverse was planned to be an object for acclimatizing before the ascent to the peak Voennih Topografov. The climb was realized from the saddle of the pass in three km to the south from the Western summit, the descent – along the South-south-eastern ridge of the main.

Passport of the ascent.

1. Class: high-altitude – technical, traverse
2. The Central Tien-Shan, southern spur of the crest Kokshaalu ( China ).
3. Peak Vizbora (western) – 5853 m , main – 5960, climb up along the southern ridge of the peak Vizbora Western, descent - along the South-south-eastern ridge of the Peak Vizbora Main.
4. Grade of difficulty: 4B (combined) or according to the tourist classification 3B* (3B+3B).
5. Climb: on the way up: 4600 m (saddle of the pass) – 5960 – 1360 m , on the descent 5960 – 4500 m (saddle) – 1460 m , between the tops – about 300 m .

Extension - 7000 m (fixed ropes – 27 ropes on the way up, 25 – on the descent, all in all – 2810) m, distance we passed from the Base camp back to the Base camp – 20 km . The extension of the strips of the 5 th grade of difficulty – about 400 m , all in all on the descent, of the 4 th grade of difficulty – about 400 m , extension of horizontal strips on the ridge – about 4000 m .

Average steepness of the route – horizontal ridge of 5 degrees steep, further up to the point 5853 – 35 degrees steep, up to 5960 – 2 degrees, descent – 40 degrees.

1. We hammered in: rocky/snow/ice/to the juts: more than 30/more than 20/0/more than 30
2. Hours of walking: from the saddle of the pass in the Southern ridge of the summit 5853 up to the saddle in the South-south-eastern ridge of the summit 5960 – 51 (8 days, climb to 5960 – 31.45, 5 days). All in all – 9 days (1 day – approach to the route from the Base camp)
3. Night stops: all were lying – on cornices, on snow, comfortable (bivouac works took us no more than an hour). As for altitudes: the first - 4500 (below the saddle), the second and the third – about 5000 m , the 4 th – 5300- 5400 m , the 5 th – the 6 th – 5700, the 7 th – about 5000m, the 8 th -about 4000 m .
4. Leader: Anatoly Dguly
5. Participants: Lehtman David, Leonenko Vladimir, Gorin Anatoly, Dobriaev Nikolay, Kirienko Aleksey.
6. Couch: Anatoly Dguly
7. Set off from the Base camp - 27.07 2006

Traverse 28.07 – 2.08 2006

The tops: 5853 – 29.07, 12-00 ( Moscow ), 5960 – 30.07, 12-50 ( Moscow )

Descent: to the saddle 2.08, 9-00 ( Moscow ), to the BC – 2.08

13. Tourclub “Vestra”, Moscow .