The Foigt’s group and joined it Gija Tortladze was going to be the first. But before that at the mount had happened events, that had altered the situation in the whole. As early as we started descending, our group fell into heavy rockfall. The stones were falling from somewhere at the sky, they were invisible for eyes and at collapse blew up as a shell, threw human essence into confusion. At one of the moments I saw a whole group of stones that was falling straight to us, and as suddenly as I shouted to Jura Uteshev: “Stones!”, we perched ourselves beyond rocky jut. But stones passed us and “went down” to the region where Peter Kuznetsov was standing. It had thought badly. But Peter sprang out of the rocks like a cucumber, saying that everything was OK. To Basic Camp (BC) 4900 we came morally broken, being glad that had passed that moment successfully.

After that event on the moraine in front of the mountain rested 16 men, 8 from Kuzbass-team, me and Gija, three Irish, that in the beginning had contended for national superiority of ascent to K2, but by that moment had joined there hands, Swiss woman, Pole – Jacek and Dutchman.

Six people not from CIS on the 29th of July went away to ABC. But on the 30th at 12 o’clock Irishman Bango by liaison reported that along the route there were falling stones and on of the stones struck young Irishman. He had a great loss of blood. They were taking him down two together and need more people.

So, it started! Salvage operations. “Young” led by Foigt, doctor S. Naumenko, Gija, signal officer Ubed, they all went to ABC (5350) and brought that Irish. Kevlar helmet was broken through, head too, but skull was safe. Sergey Naumenko professionally sewed that wound over.

After that Gija declared that personal safety is above all and refused to continue the ascent. Four of us, Foigt-Gaponov-Kuvakin-Rusakov, went to the camp 1 (6000), came to an agreement that they would go at night time, at cold time of the day. That it was, the mount had a weak point there. As on the place where camp 1 had placed it was completely destroyed and was in the place where stones were falling, the guys made a new platform near the rock.

Our group of four, Utesev-Kuznetsov-Kul’bachenko-Bogomolov, went away on the 1st of August. I can’t say that way up to the camp1 and overnight stop itself gave me much pleasure. For all the apparent safety we pressed into the wall from the only sound of falling stone.

So, we decided only one thing, to start ascenting even earlier. Thus, messing around and creaking with crampons over the rocks in the dark, we grasped wisps of ropes, collected for years, using foul language as almost all of them were spoiled and there were no such points where we could burden them properly. We wanted only one – to reach the range strip, where we could feel ourselves in safety before the start of rockfall. Because of that we were in a hurry, suffocating in a burst, and stone were falling from our legs, though we were mobilized on that account as much as possible. But with such a condition of the route this year in that place we could do nothing.

And finally, here it was – the range, somewhere in the middle between C1 and C2 (6700). Further calmly in good weather we came to the camp2. Alex Foigt and his group had gone to the camp3 (7400), and from above came the Dutchman. When the accident with the Irishman had happened he had been above them and had gone to C2 alone. And then he had tried to go to the top, but “had eaten his fill” very quickly and went down once and for all. We gave him a piece of advice: to go either in early morning or lately evening. He gave up on it. Foolhardy fellow, but passed the dangerous strip successfully, managed to reach the basic camp.

On the 4th of August the weather became bad, despite the fact that they promised “opening” up to the 5th-6th, there was no visibility and it started blowing. The group led by Foigt decided to descent. From above also came Pole Jacek. After the accident he hadn’t helped to bring the Irish down, but had stayed at the camp1. There he had waited for Bango, who, having had brought the injured down and given him to our guys in ABC, had gone up to L1. A reckless action. So, they had gone further together, come to the camp 3, but Bango had gone further alone and Jacek with ours – down. Having come across us he was engrossed in thoughts and decided to rest with us.

First, second, third day of staying in the camp2 went by. Essentially, there appeared a suggestion to descent, have a proper rest and making a new attempt. But good weather forecast from different sources was given sometimes for 7th-8th or for 8th-9th of August. Moreover, Jury Uteshev said that he wouldn’t endure one more going out. Jura always in expeditions acclimatized for long time, was ill, but for the key going out “braced up”, put on oxygen and came to the top. That’s why we decided to perform a siege variant. To stay there as much as we could suffer.

On the 6th of August appeared Bango, who disappeared, but as BC didn’t set up a clamour, he had a constant contact with signal officer, we also were tranquil. I think, that consulted with Jacek, as they were living in one tent, he decided to stay with us. One more reckless step.

On the 8th of August Foigt-Gaponov-Kuvakin ascented to L1 on strip of good weather that was promised by weather forecast and on the last dates of expedition. As for us, we were eating the last products. In no way we could expect staying in the camp for 6 days. We thought there would be 2-3 days. We thought that had more food than it would be necessary. But being four together we had eaten all the food, at the same time having dug out all the rubbish heaps and found 2 gas-cylinders and a jar of stewed vegetables. In the last affair Peter had prospered more than others. So, we had only vitamins and medicines.

On the 9th of August the weather showed its weak point and we, having shared the last Snickers into four pieces, went up, to our place the group led by Foigt was coming. It was harshly to ask organisms for working in such conditions. Two hours ago from the moment of going away, ahead of staircase, I thought over the possibility of returning down, so much I feel unwell. My body didn’t obey me, I had heavy respiration, and after resting I had enough energy only to make one step. It seemed I had poisoned myself. But little by little all unpleasant symptoms came to naught, I became back to normal. But instead of six the way took us nine hours.

After four-day absence in the camp 4, the tent was in excellent state, (we had been afraid of the opposite situation), only sprinkled with snow. And one more day of staying in the camp. It is impossible to go up, no visibility. There we were overtaken by the second group that was going using our fixed ropes. For the 11th of August weather-chart makers promised wonderful weather, but we faintly, by landmarks, reach the camp 4 (7800). The next day we had to stay in the camp again and decided that it was the end: the next day would go down, as we had no food and no forces. And suddenly, after dinner, Uteshev, having went out of the tent, said: “Fellows, be cautious, don’t frighten it off. It s freezing, clouds are below, the mount is clear.” During the dispute about going out appeared different minds: starting time should be at 21.00 or 2.00? In order not to get frost-bitten decided to go out at 2.00.

In fact we start ascenting at 2.30. I started one of the first, but Jury, having passed me said that I should go back as I was going without oxygen. Two hours later it started dawning. The famous “bottle” is in front of me. As much as heard about it, but saw it for the first time. At that moment was wonderful firn and it was going really wonderfully. It was the bulk forward that instiled terror that was hanging at the side of the top straight above us. When you impress that if such a mass fall down, even the mount will be shocked, saying nothing about us, people. But it’s better not to impress such things, but automatically do the work and go towards the aim. Kuznetsov, Kuvakin, Kul’bachenko, Gaponov were forward. We spread for ropes, trying not to overburden them. The outlet from the “mouth of bottle” was really steep. And after it we came to a wide slope, comma-shaped, that was going in the direction of the top. At the slope there were hung three ropes. The first one was traverse to the left, second – up, third – bias to the left, in the direction of the range. When I came up from the “mouth”, Uteshev and Foigt were going up along the second rope, the four of first was above them, Jacek was on traverse, and Bango was below me. I came to the second rope, snap a clip on it and began to wait for a command from Jacek that was staying near the third rope. By it, with a break were going up Jury and Alex, I saw them down to the waist. It was 10/30, the altitude was 8350m.

At one moment I gave a glance up, and, oh shit, surf of avalanche was rolling straight to me, it was not high, I thought, about 0.5 meter, not more. I had no time to over think it, I thrust my ice-axe into firn, and it had pierced not up to the end, and pressed into snow. It rumbled by me, and then put my ice-axe out from snow, I started to fall down, then stopped, but crash continued, and then everything came to the end. Filled with snow, I was hanging at the rope Bango was below me, Jacek – above. Having thrown snow away from myself, I according to Jacek’s signal, went up. Nothing frightening was in my thoughts. I reached the point of belay. From above there were going down “for three tacts” Gaponov and Kul’bachenko, and, having reached us, they, having forced themselves to speak, said: “There are no fellows, they were swept away”.
- What do you say: how could it be “sweep away”?
- Yes, they were in about 30 meters above us. Now they are not there. Kuznetsov and Kuvakin went out from fixed ropes and were going up along snow, and Uteshev and Foigt were going in our direction along fixed ropes.
- And what happened with fixed ropes?
- They are torn to pieces.
- And where were you?
- We came beyond the rocky jut. We had decided to have a rest, to drink tea. Alex was staying with thermos, when that snow mass reached us, it rounded us, carried for 5 meters. Alex rested staying with thermos, but up to the breast in snow. We hadn’t taken this avalanche seriously only when saw that there were no fellows became horrified.
- But did you look through everywhere?
- Yes, surely, everything that was possible.
- And what should we do?
- It was a “snow board”, it came from above, the line of tearing off is above us for 50-70 meters, 120 meters wide, having working down, snow stream divided into two parts. They were carried by the right part.
- Let’s go to find them.
After that snow slope a steep rocky wall of 150 meters was going down. We were decsenting near and have a possibility to look it all through, but there were no tracks. Then the avalanche track went to the left and to the right along implicit couloirs and gutters. We looked through everywhere was possible, but, unfortunately, without any result. At the same day we descented to the camp3. And day after that – to BC. .