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Author: Gostev K.V
Photo: Vojshanov S.V.

Ai-Petri – the route “Soviet Botanists”

In comparison with many rocky regions in the Crimea, the walls of Ai-Petri do not enjoy wide popularity among mountaineers (because of distant approaches), but, however it was this place, where the first steps and routes of Crimean mountaineering were made.

The idea of creating new and updating routes at Ai-Petri had appeared long time ago, but it became real only when in our rescue service in Yalta appeared new young specialists.
General extension of the route 370m.
Approximate difficulty of the route is 5В ( the route is fit out on key pitches, there are bolts on stations).

Necessary equipment:
- Cam devices.
- Chocks (stoppers, hexs)
- It is desirable to have boulder hooks.

Short Description of the Route

R0 – R1 (50 meters, II, of 45 degrees)
Left part of the central wall.
The range to the left from “Per’ja” and a big niche “Glaza” from the foot of the wall upwards and to the left to rocks of the I – II categories of dificulty. Up to the ground covered with gravel.

R1 – R2 (70 meters, III – IV, of 60-70 degrees)
From the ground upwards and to the left along the grass-covered chap, that passes along sloping plates and goes to a big sloping plane with a pine-tree – it is the first station (you can support it with middle stoppers for sure). Middle cam devices and chocks are used well.

R2 – R3 (25 meters, IV, of 75 degrees)
From the pine-tree upwards and to the right along the implicitly marked interior angle up to a big wall, along the wall – 10 meters to the right. The station is near the small juniper that grow in the wall (to make a station pitons and chocks are to be used).

R3 – R4 (30 meters, , A1, of 85-90 degrees)
From the juniper 30 meters upwards to the right part of the cornice.

R4 – R5 (45м, 6b+ - 6c-graded, A1, of 90 degrees)
The cornice has to be detoured by free climbing along the interior angle. After the cornice, following the right part over the hangings to a comfortable gently-sloping ledge, there is a station on it.

R5 – R6 (50 meters, 6b - 6b+-graded, A1, 30 meters of 90 degrees, 20 meters of 6b+ - 6c-graded, 90 degrees, A1) From the ledge along the interior angle to the right up to gently hanging blocks. From them there is an exit to easy rocks, along them to the left to big pine-trees. All of them are suitable for making a station.

R6 – R7 (100 meters, II, of 60 - 65 degrees)
From pine-trees there is an exit to a range and along the range to a safe place, entrance to the central couloir and along the couloir sometimes going along easy rocks entrance to the plato.

The route was made by the group of mine-rescue service ECM from Yalta consisting of Rushkovsky A.A., Horoshok A.A., Gostev K.V.

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