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24.08. Arrived to Islamabad. Flyback to Moscow - on August 28 from Karachi (as it was planned).
21.08 Skardu. The events of the last 3 weeks have "pressed down" my organism. I am terrifically sleepy.
20.08 Trekking Paju - Gorofon. Tomorrow two-hour trekking + jeep driving to Skardu
19.08 Getting up to Paju. I find it difficult to go after the mountain siege.
17.08.06. ABC evacuation. Everything possible we hope to evacuate. The guys’ personal possessions. But the four high camps we turned adrift. Because we are very exhausted. Banjo has the ticket for August, 20. He is late all the same. We hold him here. If he leaves us we will lose the last phone. We have only ten broken Thuraya phones.
16.08.06. Base camp. We answer a lot of calls. The Liason officer left yesterday in Skardu for execution of documents and burial certificates helping us to catch our plane on August, 27. We built a memorial plaque into a wall next to the plates in memoriam to the three climbers from Odessa (1994), Sokolov S from Russia (2004) and Kirghiz Gubaev А. (2004). We are waiting for the porters.
13-15.08.06 Today, 15.08, we came back BC after overcoming disaster. On August, 13 we were at about 8350 meters when approximately at 10.30 local time of all of us were engulfed in a huge block of frozen snow 120* 80m in size split off the rock. Its top left part hit Kulbachenko and Gaponov, dragged them 2 meters and stopped. I + Jacek Teler from Poland + Banon Anthony Terence a.k.a Banjo from Ireland hang on the fixed rope in the avalanche right side. Four climbers Uteshev-Foigt-Kuznetsov-Kuvakin climbing the diagonal ropes were gone away soundlessly. The avalanche started in 50-70 meters above. Where did it spring from in this snowless year?
We started to descend. The avalanche cone went aside C4 (7800) and broken down into two parts. We could not see any traces of people location. At 14.00 we sent a message to BC about happened and made a call of the helicopter. But weather does not allow to make a flight till now. And there is no sense to make a fly due to the maximal altitude of flight is 6000m, but we have to search at 7000-7500 meters. I descended hundred meters below on via Cesen route using the fixed rope of Japanese expedition. Without results.
I had been going upwards and thinking: "That there is the justice of heaven. Here is the avaricious man's happiness. This snowless year the mountain has showered people with stones on the route directing horror and forcing to retire and keep out of harm's way. But it seems we found justice and began to move at night when stones are frozen-in. All the forecasts we got had no justification. And then in the last push we decided to lay siege to the mountain and to sit in camps to the bitter end while the going is good. I had sat out 6 days at 6500m before. In C2 we spent 6 days and when the group led by Foigt began to press us forward according to the forecast, having eaten one snikers for four men we set off to C3. It was very cruel to our organisms. But in C3 weather was bad too. One more forced-rest day. Foigt's group climbing the fixed ropes caught up. On August 11 the pearly weather was predicted.
But we hardly could move on landmarks through the fog up to C4. On August 12 we sat in C4 and decided to finish that siege tomorrow and to start to descend if the weather would be bad again because we had no food and felt absolutely done in. But suddenly in the afternoon Uteshev left the tent and found that it was freezing, the clouds were under our feet and the mountain was clear. He said: “Hey, guys, keep silent and do not frighten that away”. There were two schools of our thought about starting the summit bid: at 21.00 or 2.00.
We decided not to get frost-bitten and set off at 2.00. And on August 13 at 10.30 (the 13th day!) we were already at 8350m! I looked upwards, and, aw heck!, a breaking wave of avalanche less than or equal to 50 cm was near to me. I forced my ice-axe into the snow not up to the end and flattened myself against the slope. Something stormed on me, then pulled out the ice-axe. I began to fall and then managed to stop. The avalanche was muttering for some time more and then it suddenly passed off. Entirely filled up with snow I was hanging on fixed rope, Banjo was under me hanging too and Jacek - above. Having shaken out the snow I rushed upwards in according to Jacek's signal. At that time Gaponov and Kulbachenko descended to us: "The Muzhiks are gone. They were swept away." - they gasped.
- What's the next move?
- The avalanche has come from above and furcated. They have been carried away to the right. Let's search.
But our efforts produced no results.
There isn't the justice of heaven!
How is it?
Why is this? The Russians, Siberians, aren't a bad old skin, the anchormen of Russia.
The guys, upstaged the Mountain.
Why they?
There isn't the justice of heaven!
I express the deepest condolences to family, relatives, friends!
Sergey Bogomolov
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